This is a realistic part of traveling, and so I mention it.
*OMG talk about flash back!* That reminds me of riding on the Greyhound from Vegas to Phoenix, and it was an older bus with broken air conditioning, and the spacing between the seats is absurdly small, plus a lot of the seats were torn/taped. An older man maybe in his 70’s…he that smelled like he had not showered in years was stinking up the bus, and it was sadly SO bad that the bus driver himself took this old man outside of the bus to talk with him. If it could become any more stinky…IT did. There were also people on the bus that had extremely bad gas like those rotten egg/nasty whatever. Kinda makes you think how many musty farts are in bus seats. So…thinking back to that trip….I guess it could have been worse. I really admired the bus driver he was a middle aged black man. His motto was ‘if you give me trouble I will make you do the duffle bag drag’. Duffle bag drag…it’s really catchy. I like the saying. It’s fun to say. Too bad school bus drivers cannot use that line without parents furiously calling the bus barn to complain.
So, back to writing about the trip…
Perhaps one day I will meticulously write about adventures. But the odds of that are like Tina Fey’s power of writing skills, and riding/writing about the Great Divide. Uh, yea, it just won’t happen. Like Dragons becoming real, and Frodo Baggins becoming my friend. Until that mystical time happens then, I do have more info to share within this adventure. Due to my friend who is highly motivated to write down religiously the number totals, camping spots, and events of the adventure. This will be info I will also share within this blog posting.
My hopes are: to help give insights for others to gather info for their future journeys. Or help give people insight to things they might have never thought of. Or whoever this might inspire to ride a one speed fixed gear converted from an old 10 speed over 3,200 in just a month, or maybe it might inspire someone to go on a walk. I don’t know who this might be useful for. Probably just my mom and her church friends. It would be cool to hear about some one inspired from these adventures to dumpster diving for a POS bicycle, and then riding it across America. Maybe I’m just a loser, dreamer, and loner. That’s okay too. My friend calls me, ”Donna Quixote”, and I call him “El Esqueleto de la montanas” due his raw vegan diet making him a enlightened skinny twig during the journey.
So please do not expect pretty structural sentences. Thank you.
****So first I’m starting off with the biggest why question. WHY THE HELL you wanna go bicycle thousands of miles through Mexico, and Central America? For Lord’s sake on a one-speed fixed gear w/one holy Jesus brake?! Are you on drugs child?!****
My answer: Well that is a very valid question. I believe the total planning for the trip was about 4-5 (less than six) months before my friend, and I left Antelope Wells, New Mexico. So, in the realm of planning journeys it was kind of “last minute”. This ‘trip idea’ really sparked my interests due to being hit by a car while riding my bicycle in early spring the injuries push back my time to be able to start the Appalachian Trail at a timely matter. So, out of knowing that I would still be hiking into even the logistics of winter…I decided not to do the Appalachian Trail. Thinking back now I find it really bizarre that my bad luck would pay in such an unremarkable way.
My friend wanted to cycle from Antelope Wells, NM to the end of Panama (until the Darien gap) in a month. Basically trying to follow the old skool Pan-American highway. Thinking back though I think this idea really started from wanting to follow the Great Divide into Mexico/Central America. Following the Great Divide into Mexico/Central America thankfully he decided would be too hard to follow due to unknown roads/dirt roads, questionable resupply, questionable foreign friendly, not super strong Spanish speaker, and basically too hard to correlate w/the amount of time/costs. So the plan was now based on the roads. You know the nice asphalt roads.
Writing more and more about the idea back and forth…he asked me if I wanted to do this very challenging trip that had been brewed up. Told him I had to think about it. What a lie. I knew right away I wanted to be apart of the insane suffer fest. Perhaps vain in an attempt to uncover new aspects of life I have not thought of. Perhaps a productive way to escape depression, and hope for some life enlightenment. Run away from mediocrity. I knew it would humble me, and sometimes physical/mental suffering is the only way to realize and appreciate the true rarities of life. Best way to learn about life is to travel.
Or to sound like an old mountain man: an added notch in the belt/wood for life experiences.
Thankfully at that current time I had no true obligations. Had the opportunity to travel super hardcore by being super simplistic/cheap ass/penny pincher with my friend through 8 foreign countries was a trip I knew would be too rare to pass up.
So, I got my bicycle ready for action! Like a warrior. While building my front wheel I watched motivations.
So out of all these super hardcore ideas it was born. To insanely (with pride said with a Spartan voice) ride 4,000+ miles from Antelope Wells, New Mexico to the end of Panama (until the Darien Gap) with minimalist gear. He was going to follow a raw vegan diet. I was going to be a typical junk food vegan. Also, we decided to ride one-speed fixed gear bicycles. :) Although I road a fixed gear on the Tour Divide, at least at times I got to hike-a-bike. With riding on the road there really would not be any true breaks like on the Tour Divide. My friend rides on his fixed gear very daily, but had not adventured into this type of extremities w/ his fixie. Riding fixed gear bicycles at least we both would not have to worry about complex bicycle parts…just greasy fingers. :)
So…there you have it. That is my reason why. Re-phrase in a shorter way: rare opportunity, extreme challenge, minimalist ideals, and unforgettable life altering experience that would re-shape/define my proprieties, and life. Humbling experience…that I knew would have suffering, weeping, anger, frustrations, and the most simplistic joy. What are we running from? We are running away from mediocrity!!!!! HELL YA!
*****WE NOW START THE JORNEY!!!******
I am going to start with my friend’s religious calculations, and I might add a side note here or there.
Started in Antelope Wells, New Mexico, USA
July 31 - 96.7 miles, camped 11 miles past Nuevo Casas Grandes off gated dirt road next to the hwy. *side note* While riding at night. At first I thought I had a flat tire, but then I herd a bolt sound hit the road. I just thought I had run over a bolt in the road. All of a sudden my cranks became very wobbly, and my left crank arm fell off. It was rather bizarre, because I had made sure I tightened my bolts before leaving. Perhaps I did not tighten the bolt all the way, or something really stupid. So, I pedaled holding one crank arm that fell off, and yelled at my friend to stop. We pulled over. Therefore deciding our camp spot pretty quickly, due to my bicycle situation. Thankfully I carried an extra crank bolt, and we did not have to spend time in the morning to try to find the bolt that bizarrely fell out. Had no other problems after that. Gave us a reality check that we should check the tightness of our bolts just in case. Simple vibrations can drastically cause havoc (as learned in the pass riding experiences).
Aug 1 - 128.2 miles, camped 30 miles short of Chihuahua and 1/4 mile off the freeway in the desert off dirt road next to national park.
Aug 2 - 144.4 miles, camped after Ciudad Camargo, off dirt road, about 1/4 mile off the hwy on private property across from an orchard. *side note* I think this was the night were I cannot remember who thought it was a good idea to sleep in the orchards. Probably a mix of both of us. Cycling hard all day we are not going to make the best calls. So simply assuming that if we went into the Orchards deep enough we would not be seen from the road…uh that was a bad call. It was less than 10 mins before a Mexican Police car slowly drove by the Orchards from the road coming to a stop with there spot light flashing through the orchard, and seeing their police lights on. I thought this is a really crappy idea…we are going to get shot by an AK-47 in a Mexican Orchard. We really thought we were deep enough into the Orchard not to be seen. Then I heard dogs (probably the owners dogs) in the distance. If this area is like Arizona…rural farmers, or ranchers will without a doubt shoot at you. Arizonan’s like their guns, and if they get a chance they will try them out on intruders. Wild West. No, I’m not joking. I felt like a deer in the headlights. I did not know what to do. Then bizarrely the police turns off the spot light, and police lights off, and keeps going on the road. WTH just happened? I tell my friend let’s stealth camp somewhere else. This is a bad idea. Someone knows where we are at, and he agrees. We run as fast as we can out of the Orchard.
FYI- don’t stealth camp in Orchards no matter how tired you may be. You are not as hidden as you think you might be.
Aug 3 - 109.3 miles, camped near Ceballos, 1/4 mile from hwy off dirt road heading to Zona de Silencio. Mosquitos in the desert. *Side note*I’ve heard that Zona de Silencio is like the Bermuda Triangle strange magnetic changes.
Aug 4 - 99 miles, slept at a bakery in Matamoros, courtesy of a sweet couple. *side note* They were so kind to us that I hope I someday can repay the kindness they showed us. I’m not joking they were amazing. There was a HUGE storm we could see brewing up ahead from the current city we were riding through. The wind was picking up, and it was around dusk. We pulled over to make sure we were going the right way, and he pulls up offers a place to sleep. It was a sign…I had a flat tire as the rain started to sprinkle, and he picks us up. Amazing humanity shown. Wow. Honestly, that was like adding propane to a tiny fire made of twigs, and gum wrappers…the burst really helped me to keep believing in humanity.
Aug 5 - 120.5 miles, camped 100 yards from the hwy off a dirt road behind some bushes, in the middle of a horse and burro trail 12 miles before General Cepeda. Woke up the next morning with Mexican farm workers riding by us on horse and burros in the dark one hour before sunrise. *Side note* I told my friend I heard something. I flung up super fast to see an older Mexican man riding on a burro. Did not know what to say. Maybe they were like WTF? I don’t blame them. We packed rather quickly.
Aug 6 - 102.9 miles, camped next to the hwy about 20 miles short of the hwy 58 turnoff and San Roberto. Very green desert. First night with earplugs.
Aug 7 - 131.4 miles, camped 50 miles short of Victoria, off short dirt road into the jungle. Lots of mosquitos.
Aug 8 - 111.8 miles, camped 20 miles after the 81/83 junction or 70 miles short of Tampico. Crossed Tropic of Cancer.*side note* We saw the sign for Tropic of Cancer with a sun faded blue balloon tied to the sign.
Aug 9 - 127.6 miles, slept on side of road a few miles past Zuluama.
Aug 10 - 106.9 miles, camped past Tuxpan off bluff or hill next to the hwy.
Aug 11 - 105.8 miles, 45 miles shy of Veracruz, camped a few miles past the nuclear power plant, after jumping a gated fence into the wet jungle with huge spiders overhead.
Aug 12 - 82.6 miles, D had 2 coffees with 4 shots of espresso and a Tylenol for fever, then slept 1/2 hour, woke up puked it all out, then kept going, riding 3 hours into the night in a rainstorm. Stayed at drive-in motel ($20) near Piedras Negras, off the toll road junction.*side note* Night before had a fruit vegan smoothie that a young girl made for us, and gave me diarrhea/felt like shit. Could not finish the whole thing so my friend finished the papaya banana mix. Was drenched from the rain, and shivering/feeling like shit, body was super pruned from rain…so stayed in a motel.
Aug 13 - 100.8 miles, before Minatitlan, camped off gated (but unlocked) dirt road near bridge, then off the dirt road onto cow trails.
Mosquitos.
Aug 14 - 110.0 miles, camped over guard rail next to the toll road, 50 miles shy of Villa Hermosa.
Aug 15 - 106.3 miles, rain storm after Villa Hermosa, 2 drunk guys on a horse. Slept in a bus stop in a small town, 50 miles past Villa Hermosa.* side note* These two drunk guys come up to us we were trying to hide from the rain under a bus stop. Super drunk dude's asking Adrian for monies, and the guy called me his lover. Escape. Now. Escape. Sometimes lying to get away from drunks is a good quaility to have.
Aug 16 - 124.2 miles, 15 miles before Escarcega, tried to camp off gated dirt road but
ended up spooking some cows or horses, ended up camping at a covered bus stop for 2 hours only before waking up and riding before sunrise.
Aut 17 - 78.8 miles, camped on the side of the road about 30 miles short of Xpujil ruins. *side note* Taking a huge dump in the morning, and there was this huge spider it really looked like a Banana Spider staring at me...probley pissed because I accidently knocked part of it's web.
Aug 18 - 120.5 miles, camped 20 miles into Belize, took the wrong split on the hwy and ended up off a dirt road and into a sugar cane farm. T-storm at night, lots of mud in the morning on the old hwy. *side note* We got into a little city (night), and wanted to sleep on the bus bench right by the flipping Caribbean Sea. My friend spotted a creepy bloke (I just pictured Ron Weasely saying that) perhaps drunk asked him if he had seen someone. Decided even though it was night to press on a bit further due to unwanted situations that could possibly arise being in a public area like that. We went into a sugar cane field, and tried to sleep. The mosquitoes were insanely aggressive. Adrian would mumble something, and I could not hear due to the massive amount of mosquitoes trying to get in my bivvy. Then it started raining really hardcore, and the mosquitoes finally went away, but now our bivvy were pointless to the tropical rain. So, we sat up, and tried to hide underneath Adrian’s poncho tarp thing to keep from getting to drenched. That night was a hard night.
Aug 19 - 108.8 miles, camped about 24 miles short of the Guatemala border at the back of a hotel in Belize.
Aug 20 - 120.9 miles, camped at old fended off cabin in the foggy mountains of Guatemala.
Aug 21 - 107.5 miles, camped at junction of hwy 9/13 at Texaco gas station (excellent security with armed guard all night).
Aug 22 - 97.7 miles, slept at gas station in Chiquihula right at the juction to Ipala. While waiting out the rain at the gas station and sleeping on plastic chairs with head on plastic table, D has a grand mal seizure at 2:05am Aug 23, falls off the chair and onto gravel, bumps head. *side note* crappy Grand Mal so I have no idea about anything that happened. Super tired the next day, and felt like a POS the next day. Lucky that I still had my bicycle helmet on.
Aug 23 - 66.5 miles, camped at first gas station (Texaco) in El Salvador. Slow day with lots of climbing.
Aug 24 - 126.9 miles, camped at Texaco gas station in Usulutan.
Aug 25 - 122.0 miles, camped at Texaco gas station 33 miles from Nicaragua.
Aug 26 - 130.4 miles, stayed in the town of La Paz, after Leon, in a motel for $12. Rode for 2 hours in a rain storm at night, D got a flat on the rear and had to change tires in the rain . Reached La Paz after midnight.
Aug 27 - 105.9 miles, camped in Nicaragua 20 miles from Costa Rica in a gated restaurant courtyard, courtesy of Sergio.
Aug 28 - 90.1 miles, camped at gas station after riding 8 hours in the rain at night and turning down a $24 motel / cabinas. Crashed twice, once on the hwy in the rain while an 18 wheeler passed 2 feet from my head, and once on the driveway of the motel we didn't stay at.
Aug 29 - 74.9 miles, lots of climbing, t-storm, rained out 50 miles from San Jose at 5pm. Decided to end the tour early. Out of time. Two days left of riding and over 400 miles from Panama City, Panama. Took taxi to San Ramon 10 miles ($24), then a bus to San Jose (1 hr, $4). Stayed at motel near bus stop $16.
Aug 30 - bus to Panama City $35 with bicycle (13 hours).
Aug 31 - Arrive in Panama City at 4am. Sightsee. Ride 28 miles around the city. Rain. Panama Canal. Bike shop. Bike boxes. Toyota Corolla Taxi in pouring rain to Tocumen Int Airport ($24 for 1 hour) including 2 bicycles in boxes (took out rear seat to fit), both of us sat in the front passenger seat.
Slept in Tocument Airport (aka A/C fridge). I’ve never been is such a freezing airport.
Sept 1 - D flight out at 7am. Adi at 9:30am.
So, the nerdy totals:
It comes out 3259 miles, though the real number is probably around 3350 (odometer issues). We rode for 29 days and 6 hours, or 29.25 days, so we averaged at least 111.4 miles per day if we use the first number, but probably 114.5 miles per day if we use the second number. Roughly 301 hours of riding over 29 and 1/4 days, so we averaged 10.3 hours per day pedaling. That's pretty awesome considering we suffered 3 bouts of diarrhea each and I had a seizure. That also means we averaged about 11.12 miles per hour while riding, pretty impressive considering the terrain in Guatemala and that we were riding fixed gear.
We decided quits because we knew we would not have enough time to make it to Panama before our flights. Our official end of consecutive cycling tour ended about 40 miles from the capital of Costa Rica.
Here is the 2nd part of the trip. The first part was recorded by my friend. This 2nd part is some of the things I observed. For the sake of other people reading this I could organize my thoughts by alphabetizing the topics I observed.
F.Y.I--- Mexico is not apart of Central America. Mexico is Mexico, and Central America is referring to: Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Panama.
Cars:
Had weird music tones. Lots of the cars had police/ambulance sounds. Lots of extra stuff added to vehicles. Fancy multi-colored or different colored license plates lights. I’m sure there are other accessories I saw, but I’m forgetting. Saw more men drivers all through the countries than women drivers.(Riding my bicycle for long periods of time each day…yes…these are things I observe). However throughout Mexico I rarely witnessed any women drivers. Odd. Maybe it was the streets we took? Maybe women don’t like to drive the toll roads of Mexico? Maybe it is a cultural thing I missed? Central America there were women riding around on mopeds, scooters, motorcycles, and I did not see very many women drivers in cars/trucks. Definitely still saw more men drivers, but more women drivers than I saw in Mexico.
In Mexico we came across a saying that if a black SUV passed you followed by a black truck/SUV it’s a sign of a cartel.
Carpooling:
It is such a joke how we (Americans) practice carpooling. It is so funny that we have a ‘special’ lane for drivers who carpool on the freeway…where we could really be using that money instead of those numerous ‘special’ lanes is to build wider shoulders on roads for people to ride their bicycles around. Without drivers feeling like ‘cyclist’ are in the way/hazard. Really this trip has opened my eyes to how much money us (Americans) waste on projects not necessary. Actually we really could spend NO money on these projects, and have a practical solution! What would be the solution then? COMMON courtesy and a simple car honk to let cyclist/even people walking along the side of the road know that you’re behind them. Tell people your driving schedule to the store or work. What is wrong with inviting others to come with you to go errands? These attributes do not really exist in American culture, but maybe just maybe in rare parts of America it thrives. I don’t know.
Mexico & Central America are massive pros of how I think carpooling is really defined. Having too many people sitting in the back of a little truck that the little truck stalls…that my friends is mass carpooling =)
Or would see a motorcycle pass with 3 even 4 people on it (including the driver)! Talk about impressive, but sketchy!
Currencies:
At times I found it hard for myself to buy food. Just because I would still see the $ sign but for like a soda it would be $6.00, and my first reaction was an inside scream followed by a HELL NO. Then realizing it was pesos, and its 12 pesos to 1 U.S dollar. Then my brain would be like okay 50 U.S cents that’s okay. Costa Rica prices really destroyed my brain because my total costs for simple food items would end up costing 4,435.00. I defiantly did a double take more than once. Dealing with eight different currencies I felt a little confused at times, but once I re-read my currencies paper sheet I brought with me…then my brain re-calculated the madness.
Acceptance of U.S monies throughout the different countries is very mixed.
Northern Mexico-usually they will take U.S monies. If you are at a store or vendor stands typical to pay with U.S, and get back Pesos. Really quite nice for businesses to be willing to take U.S monies, because it saves a trip to the bank, or possibility the ATM (last resort due to fees).
Southern Mexico- becomes a possible ‘might’ or ‘maybe’ or ‘hell no’ for Southern Mexico to take U.S monies. SO be prepared with Pesos. Perhaps a popular/tourist town grocery store “might/maybe if they want” to take U.S monies. Majority of the time it seemed like they WILL NOT take U.S monies. So, we went to the bank a couple of times to exchange our monies while in Southern Mexico.
WORD of ADVICE! Bring as new, crisp, non-torn, not written on, not folded, not dirty, not moist, not wrinkled, ect., ect. The most perfect bills you can for exchanging at the bank, or using in the store. Or in other words find U.S bills that are impeccable, or look super godly. This was something I did not really think about, and so it was a bit weird to me that the bank would not take my bills at first. But realizing since I was in a different country the BANK DOES NOT have to take my U.S monies. It’s a bit of a culture shock since I grew up with being used to paying with crappy looking bills (written on, torn, taped, dirty, ect., ect.) so I did not really think about the quality of my bills I brought with me. Good lessoned learned, and glad that I was lucky enough to be carrying some acceptable bills most of my bills were not acceptable. ALSO try to keep these bills in a good zip-lock or something that moisture/humidity will not make the bills ‘too soft’.
*Belize-We entered the border at night time, and do not recall dealing with any money exchanger people. I don’t think they are necessary Belize exchange I think was the easiest. $2 Belize dollars for $1 U.S dollar. So, all the places we came across seemed to take U.S monies fine, and then they would give you back Belize change.
*Guatemala- Entering into the border there was money exchanger people walking around. Not shy people. They would come right up to you, and start telling you why you need to change your monies. English speaking money changers could spot you out however a couple tried speaking Spanish to me, but I gave them a blank stare…then they would start speaking in English. I felt a bit sketchy about this at first, but found it obviously convenient. Rates were usually close to the same. I think it depends who you are exchanging with. Usually I did not care enough to make sure my exchange rates were perfect. If I wanted perfection going to a bank is a better choice for exchange. My rule of thumb was as long as it’s cheaper than the U.S dollar I did not care that much. Or get enough to hold me over, and if my friend was going to the bank. Just get enough money for a day or two until we got into a big city/town. Traveling into foreign countries with someone else is so nice, because little mistakes like not carrying enough of the local currency we could cover each other’s backs. The money exchangers are not too obvious, but they usually try to dress nice (not out of place, but nice). Like one guy that I noticed he was wearing a Nautica polo, jeans, and some sandals. I noticed that usually all money changers wear a ‘fancy’ watch. I don’t know how much value some of those watches really had, but I’m pretty sure it was to add to their look.
Money changers of course always carry a calculator, and shove it in your view showing you the current rate, and waving/flashing the monies they have ready to exchange. Flash off their U.S monies to show that they take U.S currency. I also noticed that money changers are not as picky as the Southern Mexico banks that refused some of my bills. I think it’s a Southern Mexico thing. I don’t really understand.
Was I nervous about flashing around my money in the open exchanging? No, because I dress like a bum. I look nasty, extremely dirty, my pants were sun faded by this point, I smelled, had not taken a shower in days, some of my braids were falling out and trying to dread. Honesty I don’t carry anything of extreme value, nor was I carrying a lot of money. There are also a lot of armed guards holding an unmistakable AK-47 around so more than likely desperate people think twice before doing something drastic.
*El Salvador- Did not know this but El Salvador is currently using U.S monies for currency right now. Which made it convenient, but kind of a bummer to try to collect a coin/dollar from El Salvador without going to the bank…It took my friend for someone to help him get to ask around to see if anyone had a Salvadorian coin on them. This took some time asking around.
*Honduras- Money changer people at the border, and I think is where the guy I was dealing with also persuaded me to get Nicaraguan monies as well. This money exchanger was extremely pushy. I finally gave in to get Honduras monies and Nicaraguan monies as well. Exchanged money to get me a couple food/drink items for a day’s worth or so if necessary but that was it. Always thought it would be cheaper to exchange with these guys, than pay for ATM fees, or paying with a VISA. I think if you were really desperate needing food, or drink from a street vendor I think they would take U.S monies. It would be easier to be counted as desperate looking like a nasty bicycle tourist bum, than a fancy clean tourist. Would not rely on this last resort, but deep down I just had that feeling that some of sellers would take U.S monies.
*Nicaragua-cannot recall. I think this is was were my friend was debating with a money exchanger about the current rate, or was it Honduras?
*Costa Rica- Is a HUGE tourist country in my eyes. They have money changers at the border, but a lot of the big name businesses/street vendors would take U.S monies. NOT ALL THE TIME! I would say less than Mexico. So make sure you are carrying both currencies.
*Panama- They use U.S monies, and actually it is mixed within their own currency. So, don’t be shocked when you pay with U.S monies, and get back some U.S monies and Panama monies. Really I did not even notice until my friend pointed it out that he had a Panama quarter, and dime mixed in with his other change. I’m sure if you paid with a Panama change in the U.S the cashier would not notice (mostly their quarters).
Culture:
Easy to point out, and recognize differences in culture, and country. It’s lovely to escape to. It’s saddening though because in a lot of the towns we noticed so much American influence. I was disturbingly shocked while we were talking to an older retired man in the Panama Airport waiting for our flights it was like 2am. He stayed less than a couple days to realize that the culture is too different for him to retire in Central America. An older white man totally from the deep south (really sweet to talk to, and I’m glad I had the opportunity to listen about his life), and to come all the way out to Central America to ‘then realize’ that it was not an idealistic retirement area for him? Was I dreaming what he said? What did he expect? What was he hoping for? Were people his age really that blind, and ignorant? Trying to long last the value of their dollar (my precious)? I’ve read articles how they are trying to promote retirees to live in a different country. Cultural wise…it’s insane to me. I’m sure for some retires it would work out great, but in the long run it’s insane to overall recommend this.
It hit me hard how rude we are as Americans, we are so ignorant in our falsehood pride of ‘being the best’. It was a hard hit coming back into the U.S waiting for a transfer flight in Miami, FL people are ass holes, and hella rude there. I could not believe how many nasty stares I received. What the hell?! It was like high school, and being treated like an outcast. I wanted to search the web to see if I was overacting about my experience in Miami, but no Miami is proud to be one of the top rudest cities. Figures. I guess if you still want to recreate modern day unrealistic high school atmosphere of --ME-- illusionist values live in Miami.
Bathrooms:
Yes, this is quite in interesting topic. Pay to use bathrooms. This is a good FYI for those who have no idea about this. Growing up never once experienced paying to use a bathroom. So...I was like okay. First off just because you pay to use a bathroom does not guarantee anything. This was throughout the trip. I would say that it's a 50/50 chance that you will pay for to use a bathroom. If you pay to use a bathroom, and the bathroom is just a cement crap shoot...well at least you can sit your butt down on a cement hole, and crap while fly's become your new lovers. Sometimes it is nice to sit down while pooping, because well...squatting with tired legs can backfire on you, and before you know it your hands are in your crap. :/ Also, t.p is sometimes not apart of the deal...so beware if you have to crap make sure you bring back up items with you into the bathroom. If there is a line of ladies behind you...don't be an idiot, and keep the door open so the next lady won't have to pay for the bathroom. One bathroom I remember is seriously right out of Nacho Libre. The toilet did not have enough gusto to flush...so there is a huge rain water 50 gallon barrel in the bathroom, and some type of container to take some of the water out of the 50 gallon barrel, and take it back to the toilet...then dump the water into the toilet so the toilet will flush. It seemed pointless to carry t.p with me if I could get some from the bathroom, because due to the humidity/heat the t.p would always deform into a clump of pointlessness. Most of the bathrooms that I went into you throw your t.p in the trash, NOT in the toilet. Also...toilet seats are usually not existent. So...make sure you angle yourself not to fall into the toilet. The cost to use a bathroom is varied...like 5 pesos like $.40 US...the most I paid was 10 pesos.
Americans speak more, and more of privatization, and less government intervention. While it sounds cool in theory. It makes me wonder if Americans really understand what privatization of business really could imply. That could easily include the bathrooms in public we take for granted using so freely. Just think about that. I sure did. It’s a simplistic thought that mindlessly goes unthought-of.
Bicycles:
Maybe saw one or two women riding bicycles throughout the WHOLE country of Mexico! What the hell?! Maybe it has to deal with the roads we took? I don’t know why I hardly saw any women on bicycles in Mexico. Maybe someone can write me an 80 page email explaining the rare sight of women on bicycles throughout Mexico. But throughout Central American I saw women riding bicycles all the time! Also witnessed more than once a mom pedaling a bicycle with 3 CHILDERN ON THE BICYCLE! One baby cradled to her body held in place with a cloth rap, another child sitting on the top tube, and another kid sitting on the bicycle rack in back. THAT WAS SO HARDCORE! I wish I had taken a picture of this very rare scene (well to me…I’m sure it’s not a rare scene within the culture). So many times I wanted to go up to these women with their children on their bicycle, and tell them how amazing they are. My Spanish is not good enough to chat.
*Types of bicycles noticed: mostly MTB rigid frame with 26 tires. There were some cruisers I think they could be at least 40+ years old. Rarely saw uber fancy road bicycles…came across two in Belize, two in Costa Rica, and the other one I noticed was in El Salvador. Did notice some older road bicycles (old skool 10 speeds), but I think they were just as rare to see as uber fancy road bicycles. One man I noticed had turned his road handle bars up…so he could sit more upright. Some parts I noticed were an obvious one piece crank, usually a bicycle had some type of rack, solid quality bolt on axles for the hubs. Lots of squeaky chains. I’m pretty sure the huge majority of bicycles seen could have been fixed with super simple tools. Because in the cycling industry there seems to be a special tool to remove something…ya know.
*Bicycle pooling (bicycle—more of a tricycle that had a little overhang, and seat for people to sit called a rickshaw) I don’t know if this service really exist maybe the huge cities of the USA. Also there is the other style of bicycle-pooling on a bicycle (yes, a normal bicycle) it is not uncommon to see a little kid (height wise) riding a too big of a bicycle also on the bicycle sitting on the top tube is another kid, and sitting on the rack on the back is also another kid. Yes, I do see bicycle-pooling in the USA…usually American kids (rarely adults) pedal their BMX bicycles with a person in back riding on their pegs…sometimes the front as well, but very rarely seen practice. I have never witnessed American kids sitting on the top tube like I saw during our tour.
*Riding bicycles on the roads in Mexico & Central America-- I have never been treated with so much courtesy while riding my bicycle. It was a culture shock. Sometimes a bottle was thrown out of the window of a bus, but I don’t think it was really done to hit someone. Trash is pretty common sight of the side of the roads. Granted I did have my close calls, but I think that is only natural while riding a bicycle on a road. Cannot say Costa Rica is really ‘road bicycle safe’, but due to the narrow/wet/horrid visibility during tropical rain storms- roads we were traveling on I think we were a red-flag hazard for drivers, and did not need to be. Wish I had bought/brought a more insightful map of Costa Rican roads.
*As for freaky close calls while riding:
***Freakiest moment was when I was squeezing by cars in the shoulder lane in the super busy city (I cannot remember the city name) It’s one of those cities were I got to the point if I didn’t know if I was breathing air, humid water air, or straight up exhaust. Due to how busy it was, and the massive amounts of stands...it reminds me of San Francisco...that is the most crowded place I've been…well maybe London, England beats it…I don’t know I think it was the time I was in San Fran that was so crazy. So anyways…the shoulder was way too narrow, and my BMX pedal clipped the sidewalk. I lost my balance a bit, and rubbed against a bus wheel. Lucky for me the bus was stopped, but slowly starting to go forward. The people in the bus yelled at the bus driver, and the bus driver stopped so…basically I escaped death. My left shoulder had a bizarre like slight burn due to the slightly moving bus wheel, and my long sleeve was slightly covered with a black tire mark.
***While riding in Cost Rica the rains made riding on the road rather dangerous, and the roads are pretty narrow. Not the ideal time to be on the road. Anyhow we have a decent speed 10-14 mph riding pace, and my friend riding in front of me SLIPS WHILE RIDING HIS BICYCLE (due to the rain/moss=slick roads). At this time a semi truck was also passing us. I see the semi come close to crushing my friends head. At this time I slam on my brake, and I’m sliding due to how slick the road is. Due to how hard I’m applying pressure to my brake…I BROKE so many strands in MY CABLE...that it causes the cable to dislodge from my brake! NO LIES! I crotch shoot myself from the bizarre jerk, and my body comes forward hitting the front tube. I don’t fall, but almost run into my friend lying on the ground. I believe my friend has a special karma. Honestly I thought I was going to witness a death. It was a bizarre rush. Figured out how to fix the cable by retwisting the cable, and had like less than 10 strands holding the cable together.
Bus:
I think is how people really get around. Heard stories of mystically painted buses and massively over packed buses with people. Well these stories are true. Panama has the most beautifully painted buses that I have ever seen
San Jose, Costa Rica- Panama City, Panama--Ã movies: Blood Diamond, Bad Boys. $35 U.S to travel from San Jose, Costa Rica- Panama City, Panama. Bus service was called Panama Express. The price is a ripping good deal. We did not have to put our bicycles in a box. It was so nice, because that saved us at least a good half a day trying to find/put together a bicycle box. The bus was actually very nice. The bus was like a greyhound bus, but way nicer. The bus was pretty empty, and they don’t take as many breaks as a greyhound. On breaks we did take it was about 15-20 mins. They don’t bull shit. To go through borders/customs of Panama it took us about 2 hours maybe a bit more. We were dropped off at the Albrook Mall in Panama City which is a huge central bus drop/mall. With basically everything you could possibility need. We did not pay anything extra for our bicycles. I cannot quite remember but I think we left at 11am, and arrive at 4am the next day. However…make sure you are carrying a bit extra monies with you to ‘maybe’ pay for your bicycle.
Taking the bus to San Jose we did pay the dude a tad extra for the bicycle…it was not a lot, but I cannot recall the exact price. I think it was like 5,000 Costa Rican monies, which is like $10 U.S. No box needed to put our bicycles in either.
*Bus story* Climbing up some of the massive hills of Guatemala the bus would slowly pass me....while sounding like the bus was about to stall, and the same time releasing massive amounts of exhaust. When I saw the back of the bus the bus had huge painted pictures of Jesus on the back. I started laughing. Seeing the dark humor of the possibility of the bus stalling while going up massive hill, and hoping Jesus would protect the bus.
*Bus story* Try not to smile while a huge bus passes...you may get nasty amounts of exhaust on your teeth, and since I have a sweaty humid face...My face would sometimes change in color hue to this. Also it would burn your eyes. I’m pretty sure humidity affects the exhaust differently.
*Bus story* some of the buses in Panama that had the most amazing paint job...some of the buses also had DUAL exhaust pipes. Those were connected on to the back side of the bus, so the pipes were facing the sky. Hardcore.
Foods/drinks:
Just staring at the keyboard not even knowing where to begin. Almost feel overwhelmed to try to even cover the vast experiences. Eating a vegan diet, and traveling with a raw vegan. We would ask (well mostly my friend, bless his heart. Due to his better Spanish) lard in the beans or rice, eggs/milk in guacamole (yes, eggs! That was a bit of a shocker for me as well!) and all the typical vegan interrogations questions you could think of for trying to order a dish. Due to this prying for information about food/drinks--- I believe it has honed my abilities to notice the tiny things about foods/drinks. Eating a vegan diet and traveling throughout Central America IS NOT HARD, nor did I ever think it would be. Traveling through Central America by bicycle you are bound to GAIN weight, NOT loose weight. Thinking about it is VERY RARE to hear someone that came back from the Central America areas, and THEY NOT TALK about WEIGHT GAIN.
Unless I guess you are doing a raw vegan diet, but I think it’s possible to GAIN weight (yes, you read that right) but I think carrying more pounds of food is a requirement. After watching my friend blow my mind/my doubts about doing this raw vegan without carrying hardly any extra food weight, but going from store/fruit stand with hope to find raw foods. It was not always a successful find. So, I watched him loose---I feel ‘survival’----amounts of weight/fat. He defiantly admitted to needing to come back to Central America with a vegan diet and not raw vegan so he could try all the unique drinks/foods. I cannot even begin to imagine the temptation he went through when he saw me eat amazing freshly cooked local foods.
*Salsa- It should be its whole separate category. Salsa does not really define to the exact definition of what us Americans think of Salsa. Well….after Mexico.
HOLY HELL, not that I want to over use ‘vulgar words’ but I find this phrase to best describe the mighty power of Mexican salsas. Most of the time we would stop at a stand in town, or out in the country side there might have been a lucky little side of the road cement tiny house with a couple excited to feed us. First we took whatever they offered as salsa…which is usually more of a Tapatio liquid. Our inexperience with Mexican salsa was quickly learned after the first salsa…WE needed to ask for ‘little’ picante, or ‘little’ fire/heat. Now hold up for a minute I love spicy stuff, but some of these Mexican salsas WERE out of control!
Most of the Mexican salsa were almost ALWAYS homemade expect when traveling through Tabasco (which is a state of Mexico, and the birth idea of the Tabasco company sauces, due to the chiles/peppers grown here. FYI- Mexico is divided up into different states.) Excited after a long day to have a wicked huge plate of black beans, rice (plain), and guacamole on top I noticed on the table that they had a bottle similar to like a Tapatio bottle. Excited to identify a salsa bottle, but not the words—I excitedly put huge amounts all over my plate. Looking back I thought something might of come across my mind knowing that going through the state of Tabasco, Mexico there might be some almighty Tabasco fire! (Anyhow cycling for long hours distorts the brain’s common sense at times). Took a huge bite with my corn tortilla, and thought that the salsa was pretty dang good…until my throat started tingling, lips went numb, my nose went runny, and eyes watered up. My friend stares at me, and he identifies the bottle as: Habanero Tabasco sauce. HOLY HELL! I am careful not to drink any water even though it is tempting. The sting in my mouth is knocked out after a couple minutes due to the fats in the guacamole. If I did not have guacamole I think the heat of the habanero would have lasted for a much longer time period. It actually tasted pretty good, and being stupid heating the hell out of my mouth I put more on for laughs. Hours later and my throat still tingling, and had unremarkable energy from eating the Habanero Tabasco sauce! Heck I need to buy bottles of this stuff, and give it as a unique gift! Need a shot of energy put some Habanero Tabasco sauce on your food.
**Another salsa story--At a store sitting outside with the bicycles waiting for Adrian (in Mexico) to return with foods from the deli he came back and scored some pico de gallo. Happy that he could eat some as well (raw vegan)…he begins telling me how he asked the lady if it was hot, and she said it was very mild. So excited to have pico de gallo with my rice also scored from the deli…this pico de gallo is with out a doubt the hottest I had ever tasted. I think the peppers used were Serrano, but I could not get my self to believe that Serrano peppers could be this HOT!!! I find it hard to eat hot foods when it is really hot/humid outside. It was a sucky combo. Not wanting to waste monies, or seem unappreciative for my friend’s efforts of getting this deli food. I ate as much as possible, before I finally sucker out and gave the rest to him. He had a very hard time eating as well. On top of this we were both suffering from diarrhea, I also was dealing with nausea, and fever from a smoothie a girl made for us the night before, but that is for a another story. Good side of this is eating this ridiculously hot pico de gallo had a noticeable boost of energy.
Countries/salsa-- noticed how the different cultures defined salsa, pico de gallo, picante very differently. It was really quite fun, and refreshing to always see/taste different versions of these.
*American-Mexican salsas, pico de gallo, and picante(s) are very standard as thinking of a chucky salsa with chips we think of ie. Pace. Pico de gallo is usually NOT spicy, and very easy on the tongue for whoever eating it. Picantes I think are NOT as hot as Mexican versions.
*Mexican salsas. I never experienced a standard thought of what I considered salsa like in the states. In my experiences I usually was offered little bowls of blended up pepper, chilies, very basic, maybe with some vinegar added, water. Pico de gallo was the same like in the states, but ALWAYS with some type of pepper added. Picantes I think are more like the tomato base, vinegar but liquid like Tabasco sauces don’t forget with some type of wicked hot pepper.
Must be the culture! THEY LIKE IT HOT MAMA! They defiantly have a different scale of what they consider ‘hot’ compared to Americans. Even beans and rice combos I got that were mixed had a massive hot spicy kick! Really was a wake up experience to HOW DIFFERENT American-Mexican to Mexican foods really are!!! Coming back home I now put Tapatio on everything I eat in disturbing quantities, and now thinking hell this stuff is weak…maybe the peppers destroy taste buds?
Thank goodness for avocados/guacamole to help take the intensities of some of the sauces.
*Belize they have a lot of Chinese and Caribbean foods that we did not end up stopping for. Most of the time when we passed a Chinese/Caribbean restaurant it was closed. Near the border of Belize and Guatemala there was a little stand. Wanted to use some of my Belize monies up before crossing the border, and so we stopped at this little stand—this plump kind lady, her son (that could speak some English), and a stoned older man sitting down behind this kind plump lady…talking to us about Bob Marley-smoking pot-selling pot-love for us(he spoke Caribbean English). Anyhow, she made fresh corn flour tortillas, and I scoped out the options to put in the burro. Spotted some refried beans (they were the kind you add water to…I’ve eaten enough types of beans to spot this type of thing out), cabbage w/shredded carrots (this was the first time I saw this. First thought oh..that is a good idea! A cheap substitute for lettuce, but did not know that this would be more common as we would travel further south.). So, I had her make the burros with the refried beans, and cabbage w/carrot mix. It was made with love, and it was sincerely filling. I spotted bizarre cauliflower in red sauce, and didn’t realize that would become the ‘salsa’ in lower Central America. Thought it was just a cheaper substitute the woman whipped up. Funny thinking back to that experience….so naïve.
*Guatemalan place we stopped at did not have any salsa, picantes, but she did have pico de gallo. Which was a whole 360 turn of Mexican style pico…the lady brought out a bowl full of: long slices of onion (think they were either boiled, or steamed), sliced carrots (they tasted pickled?), Jalapeno peppers that were cut (boiled, or pickled I don’t know. But they were not extremely hot so I am pretty sure they were jalapeno), tasted vinegar, and lime maybe with a hit of lemon. There was a lot of liquid in the bowl, and it really tasted quite good over black beans, and rice. The carrots seemed a bit weird, but it was quite good on the dish with some added salt, and corn tortillas.
*El Salvador cannot recall any sauces, but I did have pupusas (like a hot pocket, but I choose to have it stuffed with refried beans, and cabbage w/carrots. Corn dough, and fried for the outside part) the best fried food I’ve eaten! Would like to learn how to make pupusas. Avocados/guacamole seemed oddly hard to find, but NOT deep fried platanos. Tried a couple they taste pretty bland.
*Honduras cannot recall any local stands w/salsa. Sure we went to one…
*Nicaragu cannot recall any local stands. I’m sure we went to one. However I do remember downing a 2 liter of Coca-Cola within four hours, ate whole loaf of bread w/some peanut butter, Oreos, and that was within 4 hours it was a nasty eating day. I’m not proud of.
*Costa Rica diners we ate at defined salsa as ketchup. Which was odd. So ate ketchup on my rice/beans. Pretty good, and I recommend trying it. Asked for like a pico or picantes, and they gave us a huge 2 gallon of a red looking liquid sauce w/cauliflower, carrots…I don’t the hell know what other veggies were in it but it was bizarre to eat a spicy/vinegar tasting sauce with cauliflower in it. After searching around on the internet I think its called chilera. Would like to recreate this culture shocker for family/friends to try!! Rice and fried platanos are extremely common at local places to eat. Costa Rica had a Subway we ate at. The Subway seemed really out of place. The two other ladies also eating in Subway spoke German.
*Panama we at a mall, and a small downtown in Panama City like a fast food diner. At the mall they have a HUGE food court, and the typical Burger king, Pizza Hut. Scored some good eating, and pretty affordable about $4US for good size plate of --school line style food picking---. The downtown fast food diner place we went to before taking the taxi to the airport (that is a rad story) had some massive chicken choices going on, French fries, fried platanos, rice, mostly meat choices. They had no beans at their joint. So, I did not get anything to eat. Salsa=ketchup.
***another random thing I noticed is that they put rice in the salt shakers. I did not understand that first, but then realizing that it helps the salt not clump up due to the humidity.
***another random thing I noticed is that if you get a soda it's in a glass bottle you need to finish the glass bottle, because the keep them I suppose for recycling/collecting.
***passed a banana dole farm in Guatemala that was pretty cool.
*** Once we got to South Mexico it became easy to score fresh coconuts along side the road for less than $1.50 at times. They would machete the coconut, and give you straw to drink the coconut milk. Then you hand it back to them they machete it open to scoop out the coconut meat into a baggie. Awesome. I miss that.
**** Also were able to come across fresh cane juice with ice. It is humming bird power quality. After I drank this substance I felt like a freaking humming bird. Sugar rush supreme. Found this drink in Central America. Just long side the road. Jugo de cana, but I think it might go by a different name I don’t recall.
***fruit stands able to score dragon fruit, lots of papaya, HUGE avocadoes, bananas, plantains, mangoes of coarse it changes varying on area.
Children:
-In Mexico (cannot remember the city) we were at a gas station, and there was this little boy, and his sister. Both under the age of 10...I would guess their ages were like 8 or 9. These two kids were holding a Gatorade bottle, but it was filled up with soap/water...they were also holding a squeegee to clean peoples windows. So, these two kids would run up to the vehicle to see if they could clean the drivers windows for monies. Anyhow I go inside the gas station to get some food...I end up getting some lime-salted potato chips, sugar/salted cashews, and I cannot remember what else. Anyhow, I go back outside with these food items. I start eating the lime-salted potato chips, and in the bag of chips there was a collectable sicker for Shrek the movie. I just knew that one of those kids would want it (I could tell by their beautiful dark brown eyes just eying my chips bag)...also these kids were curious, and were chatting with us. I hand the sticker to the little girl. Her somber face lights up into a massive smile. She takes the sticker, and goes into a corner of the gas station huddles herself into a little ball, and just stares at it for the most ridiculous amount of time. The little boy I gave some cashews, and he seemed to really like them. Compared to Adrian giving him a tomato. haha Those kids are seriously burned into my memory. I hope the best for them.
Drinks:
Beer-Central American countries have their own beer stands all over. Sometimes just randomly on the side of the road…even miles in the boonies sometimes you might come across a beer stand. Like a little cement house with a tin roof, and painted the beer colors/name. The ones I saw most of were: Mexico- Corona, and Tecate, Belize- Belikin, Guatemala- Gallo, El Salvador-Gallo, and Tecate, Honduras-Imperial, Nicaragua-Victoria, and Imperial, Costa Rica-Imperial, Panama- really did not notice, but I am sure there is a really popular beer. If you are really into beer or the Spanish word ‘cerveza’ Central America would be a great place for you to try out lots of different beers, and quite conveniently found on the side of the road I might add! Trust me ya cannot miss it!
Beer story- While riding our bicycles through Mexico there was a Semi-truck that had two of its trailers tipped over FULL of Coronas. I could not figure out how the semi-truck trailers tipped over…but anyhow there was GLASS everywhere! People had pulled over to help clean up the road full of glass, and Coronas that did not break people were taking, and putting in their vehicles. It was quite a rare scene to witness. One of those times I thought to myself WHY did I not take a picture of this?!
Factory Farm:
Sick. Nasty. Anyone that consumes meat should visit a factory farm...no...start a factory farm tour by cycling through a small town dependent of factory farm jobs, and then cycle through the town eventually passing the Tyson factory farm. Between Bermejillo, and Torreon Mexico. In the little town is a nicely painted Tyson bus that gives people lifts. I notice this bus during a siesta in the little town. We get on our bicycles, and start heading on the road there is an unmistakable stench in the air.
While on the road I cringe hoping the next semi truck is not a truck that is carrying hundreds of chickens in crates. Unfortunately it is, and as the semi passes feathers fly out, and a stench that is so horrid...still stagnant in the air for at least another mile after the semi passes. I'm starting to feel a bit nauseous, and my lungs felt bizarre. Finally we get to the culprit who is boldly stated with the classic Tyson logo. We see workers in the back of a truck with masks still on their faces, and it's not surprising. What a toxic mess. Is this really the future, and how we create jobs for a massive population? If you need a reality shock visit a factory farm, and realize these massive producing practices are toxic. I did my senior paper on factory farming, and now in real life I'm passing one while traveling on the road to get to Torreon. Had no idea that I would pass a factory farm on the trip, but it was a reaffirmation. Reaffirmation that the future will desperately need to come up with new ideas or in a result we will slowly die in toxic shit. Literally. Have we not learned anything from the past with overgrazing of cattle, and now dealing with erosion?!?! Thinking about the air quality, and water quality makes me cringe. If you feel like you MUST eat meat...please think about the source (ie. small farms), or perhaps treat it like a luxury item. Or perhaps eating bugs, or eating cats&dogs, will become more popular...I'm doubtful, but I wonder if someday it could substitute the MUST have for meat. Something we all need to think about, or incorporate a veggie diet. No I’m not being overdramatic this is a real issue.
Health:
I think we both have pretty solid immune systems. However I think regardless of who you are I think your bound to deal with at least one bout of diarrhea traveling through Mexico. We both got different degrees of heat rash. I think my heat rash was due to not taking a shower, nor washing my clothes (well once by a sweet couple we stayed with in the Northern part of Mexico) (first engulfment of my body by water happened in the Gulf of Mexico so my clothes had extra salt in them. So, I think the humidity, and heat...really brought on the heat rash. I had a Grand Mal seizure in Guatemala. Overall, I think we had pretty excellent health considering the stress we put on our bodies every day.
Life in a day:
To picture of one of the days of traveling. I thought I would describe to the reader. Find a stealthy place to camp at night on the side of the road. Wake up around 5-7am, and packed rather quickly. My therm-rest, and bivvy sack. I would roll my therma-rest, and I have a frame-less backpack so the therm-rest works as my backpack structure/padding. The bivvy sack is a light weight 6oz that I would just stuff into my bar bag. Rather simple minimal pack up. Make sure the SPOT was ready to go. Eat whatever food I had at the time: peanut butter and corn tortillas for one morning.
Afternoon rolls in we’ve been searching for a possible food stop for Adrian, but first we go to the bank to exchange monies. I stay outside to stay with the bicycles. I notice a one legged man across the street asking for monies. He does not have crutches either. I cannot help but ponder about his life. I wanted to give him something maybe I should give him my little rum bottle, but I did not want to leave the bicycles. So by the time Adrian returns the dude is gone. We go down the road searching for food stands, but end up stopping at a store.
Majority-- I would just stay with the bicycles while Adrian would go inside the store and shop for food. While sitting outside I look at my bicycle thermometer and it reads mid ‘90’s I know it’s over 100F but lucky right now I’m hiding in the shade. The humidity has no limits, and since we have been on the road for over 2 weeks now. I’m starting to develop heat rash. The humidity makes so much unnecessary perspiration that as it rolls down my body. It feels like I’m being stung, but with a mix of being itchy. Part of me thinks the extra salt of swimming in the Gulf of Mexico did not help the heat rash. Lucky for me there is a DJ outside playing music in front of the store, and I ignore the odd pain itch. Listing to the music DJ is playing I decided to put together a roman coke. With a super warm coke I had. A bit nasty mixing in my hot plastic water bottle and the plastic aftertaste is nasty. Adrian eventually returns with a feast. Fatty watermelon piece, garlic, bananas, avocados, other veggies, bottled water, and some bread I asked for. I make a veggie sandwich. At this time Adrian is eating watermelon, and we share a half avocado with garlic.
We eventually pack up to go. On the road with refilled water bottles in the heat the plastic water bottles quickly become hot plastic water. So, drinking plastic tasting ‘tea worthy’ hot water I try to make fun of how nasty the water, and picture it as a mad tea party. Try not to fool myself with wanting ice. Ice is such a luxurious item. Cold water. What a madding illusion.
The heat and humidity is quite intense as we ride into mid-afternoon. Trying to make sure the perspiration does not go into my eyes due to how it will burn for at least 5 minutes.
It’s rather unappealing to chat to each other because of how our energy is being affected. My brain turns off, and I follow the road like a zombie. Living in the desert I can pick up on the change of winds becoming stronger, and I feel a storm brewing. To deal with the wind we take turns taking lead. The winds are super nasty. We end up taking a break under a bridge overpass. In a tiny patch of shade. We could both use a power nap, because we are exhaust from the heat, humidity, wind, and it’s zapping us.
NO WE MUST KEEP PUSHING
I think about my ancestors. I think about my ancestor that was on the Trail of Tears. She did not have a choice to suffer. I do.
The wind is awful, and I tell Adrian about ancestors.
I don’t know if it motivated him at all, but we dig deep at slowly continue. Leap frogging each other.
It’s not worth crying over, because that is a waste of precious energy. Pain is temporary.
Living in the desert has made me pretty accustom to riding in some type of strong wind, but regardless riding in the wind takes it’s toll.
Finally towards the sun setting I feel so happy, and we chat. Our emotions are rather happy. We ride into the night. I start to weep because of the simplistic nature of our trip it’s awesome. My brain kicks back into thinking mode. I start singing smashing pumpkin songs, sound of music songs, and think about life. We both start to fall asleep while traveling on the road we eventually find a stealthy camping spot we can both agree on around 1-2am. Another chunk covered in the route, and during the night we deal with mosquitoes. So tired that I don’t care to notice them, and fall into sleep.
A new and different experience tomorrow awaits us.
Music:
Heard lots of Pitbull. There is no denying how globally popular Pitbull has become. Enur, Sean Paul, Omega, and other reggaeton sounding stuff I could not identify. Heard a lot of classic cultural music, Lady Gaga in front of a store in Guatemala, eye of the tiger playing out by a toll road booth in Mexico, techno in Costa Rica, and some rock music could not figure out the band. BELIZE had some bob Marley, and reggae music going on!
So, basically always heard a great beat and even cultural music through out these uniquely different countries is absolutely amazingly…. Music built with an undeniable jammin’ beat
Usually heard the music being blasted (seriously blasted) in front of a store, or matter-of-factly inside the store. Sometimes while inside I thought...I need to dance while I walk down the aisle.
Machete Man:
We started seeing Machete men starting more or less in South Mexico, and through out Central America. Epic. They would be cutting the tropical madness along side the road, and their bicycles were right there as well. We would hear some awesome *sha--wing* type sounds it was awesome. What a great job...I think it would be hard to come home 'mad, or angry' from work. We passed some of these guys on while riding, and they had there Machete strapped on their bicycle. Some of them also had a radio on their bicycle as well. Total respect for Machete Man. Even though I live in the barren desert I would like to carry around a Machete on my bicycle!!!!
Mountains:
We heard from the locals that going through Monterrey, Mexico would be a bit crazy due to being a fatty city. Also there had been as I recall a hurricane that came through the area. So...we decided to go down South, but a different way. We went through a massive mountain range called the Sierra Madre Oriental. 
The climb into the mountain range was very do-able. I'm so, so, so glad we took the de-tour. It was mind blowing. It reminds me a bit of the Canyons in Provo, UT area, or Banff, Canada, and the steep rock faces, but the Sierra Madre Oriental rock faces were much more madly insane. Madly insane.
I told Adrian a couple times to just stop to take in the view. The water overflow had done some damage part of the bridge totally broke...so we were able to go around (there was road crew working)
....also there was some sink holes we had to be aware of. Like any hardcore mountain range, and tight roads....comes with people getting in accidents/dying. So there were quite a few shrines to remember the loss of a love one. There was also donkeys like randomly walking on the road. There was this v.w bug and people in it were chasing the donkeys. I think they were also showing off. :)
Truckers:
Got to a point that I felt like the life of a trucker.
Some of the places we ate at were like 'the' trucker stop. Truckers seems to live a very solitary lifestyle. I think I would enjoy a trucker lifestyle. I doubt due to Epilepsy I would ever be allowed to be a trucker. Anyhow, this plump woman comes up to talk to us. Her hair has some hardcore curls, lipstick, eye shadow, and one hell of a laugh. She was wearing some super tight jeans, and construction boots. I could not understand this woman very well, but Adrian was explaining the trip to her. She had the most interesting laugh. I was tempted myself to laugh. I think she was flirting with Adrian...she mentioned that she was getting a ride. Whatever the hell that meant. Maybe she was a traveling hooker. Whatever, she was a sweet lady I'm glad she came up to us to chat.
Stereotypes:
Seems like you always hear that saying about blonde hair, fair skin, and blue eyes having advantages while traveling through Mexico. I think it's true. haha I think Adrian had a special aura to some of the ladies he was talking with. haha
Shopping:
Shake it mamacita! Damn so fine! I cannot believe how shopping in a grocery store could be so INTENSE! The more populated cities areas that have fatty grocery stories. DUDE THERE IS LIKE A LEGIT DJ blasting some bad a tunes. I go inside a grocery store, and I felt like I was at a formal dance salsa party! I don't understand why people dress so nicely to go to a grocery store, but freak the music in the stores is outta control the volume is LOUD. Forget the nasty elevator music U.S grocery stores play...Mexico, and Central America have freaking parties of music going on. I danced walking down the aisle feeling at home. Awesome. It's like Food City, but times x800.
Good majority of the food was bought from the side of the road stands. Some of the stands we would cross had meat, but usually huge chunks of meat on a metal hook...with flies flying around it. Bought LOTS of coconuts from random people off the side of the road for c-h-e-a-p. They would take their Machete, and cut it open for us. Then after drinking the coconuts milk they would cut open the coconuts, and take the 'meat' of the coconut-put it into a bag to go.
Sleeping gear/camping/whatever:
I think it is one of those ultra-minalistic desires to find the ultimate-comfortable-sleeping-equipment-set-up. When it comes to sleeping gear/camping gear/whatever suits your fancy to call it…I find that outdoor people have very different comfort zones in what they are comfortable with. I respect the tour bicyclist that uses a tent, but shudder the crappy thought of carrying the extra pounds of dead weight were most nights I would be too mentally/physically exhausted to even set the tent up. There were nights on the trip were I was so exhausted that I did not even care to get out my bivy, and would start falling asleep on the ground, or bus bench. It was so humid at night...that sleeping in a simple bivy sack quickly became a sauna sweat bag. Bivvy sack became more of a falsehood escape from the tropical mosquitoes.
Random:
*Noticed some mom's with there kids washing their clothes in a river/creek, and at the same time some of these houses have a satellite t.v in their yard. Thought that was quite an interesting combo. It makes sense. Just interesting.
*People really don't do land lines, and most have a cell. It seemed like there was a different advertisement for cell phones varied in each country.
*rainy season it rains hardcore non-stop for easily 16 hours straight. (Imagine turning on your shower...yes these rain storms had a good punch in them)
*humidity, and heat is so hardcore. That inside the Panama Mall food court we were eating, and sweating insanely at the same time. It was sick. It's important to get the sweat off the forehead, before it lands in the eyes...and really burns...due to how dirty/bum I became.
*Adrian, and I both agree that this would be quite a documentary if our trip was recorded. Never a 'boring- stale day…due to having interesting interactions with others in the area everyday.
*Going through Chihuahua...it was quite random...a guy from a tv station video tapes us, and we were in the news & newspaper the next day. Sadly we were not able to get a hold of a copy.
*Met people who were from England, and were trying out there college project of their battery operated race looking car. Around Honduras port of entry
http://www.racinggreenendurance.com/the-route.php
*every security guard we saw carried an AK-47 (Mexico, and Central America)
*saw an older man pushing his older bicycle up the steep hill of Guatemala, and he had three 50 pound bags of rice on his bicycle.
*wish I had brought a radio to listen to the local channels.
* Also met a “Viking man” he was from Finland…he had tats on his arms of pin up girls, and we started chatting with him. Older dude. Met him on the bus to Panama. He gave me a good hand full amount of quarters to call home. It was funny because it seemed like the first thing he brought
up in conversation was the legendary fatty vacations Europeans seem to score. Jealous. Then hell before I knew it…seemed like my friend and him were in a semi-heated discussion. So, I really did not want to be apart of the heated discussion, and took my time trying to find a phone.
*saw Amish in Belize.
*at a store in Mexico---right across the street there was a Cartel shooting that happened at killed some people less than three days ago. I read an article called The Disconstructed Life of Sam Brown by the Bicycle magazine. http://www.bicycling.com/news/featured-stories/disconstructed-life-sam-brown
This article is very easy to understand the realities of why a drug smuggling life is so appealing. Any Cartel violence that had happened it seemed the first thought that popped up in my mind was about Sam Brown.
*try to find, or map out small details in maps. Although I had a GPS it was not detailed enough for smaller roads. We might have been able to find better side routes through Central America. Try to read more about the countries roads. Will totally pay off in times of frustrations, limited time, and dealing with crappy weather…
*next time not be so dependent on gas station food
*talk with other cyclist that has been through these areas. It helps if you can get some sweet tips.
*enjoyed looking at the different architecture in the churches we passed.
End statement:
I feel extremely lucky in a sense to be able to come across such sweet, kind, and simplistic people along our route. I'm thankful to have experienced the culture, food, and unique tropical environment of these countries. For learning so much just about everything! OBSERVING! Totally could go back for a second time. This trip left me in a peaceful feeling, and relaxed state of mind. I would like to call this ride like a vision quest--an atheistic--an initiation way to learn about humanity, and real life situations they don’t teach in school or online class.
This trip really got me into a passionate fury to learn about how to build bicycles, and with passion would like to help peoples in Mexico, Central America to be able to own a bicycle. This trip (meeting the people) really made me realize how awesome bicycles are in people’s lives’. I think the future is bound to be within cycling. Perhaps I will be able to help some type of group like Maya Pedal. The work they do to help the community is so rad!
Perhaps we could start something like this here in the states for living in the grid, but for less monies. I’m sure there is something out there.
Most expensive thing in the trip was the flight home :) Being able to fly is so nice. Get to a point were it’s easy to take for granted. This adventure would have been much harder if I was not able to fly back. Perhaps one day I won’t fly back for the sake of keeping the adventure ‘down to earth’. Haha
I still think about the impact the trip had on me. My wife beater was made in El Salvador, and Bob Marley t-shirt is made in Guatemala, and another shirt from Honduras. I now I think of these places each time I wear my clothes. Cannot help but wonder who made them, and what there life is like. Mostly all the produce we buy from different countries I think about more often when I shop produce.
Touring by bicycles is not for everyone, nor is this pace. The 100 mile plus pace is due to limited time, and just overall factoring costs. In a twisted way it’s a great challenge plus on one speed fixed gear bicycles made both tours very epic experiences. Some of my friends asked me so which epic journey did you like better Tour Divide (Canada to Mexico), or Mexico & Central America? Each one has a whole different approach. I don’t think you can compare apples, and oranges. They are two different things, but share a main factor that they are both fruits bringing this analogy to cycling. They are both unique, but still underlining tours. Perhaps a race-pace tour.
Some days it’s not easy, and I found myself weeping due to how much suffering I burdened myself in. Some days a simple sun set would give me such a freedom high while riding. Living life by bicycle is so simplistic, and easy. By riding such a simplistic bicycle I truly believe it has the possibility to enlighten thoughts.
Traveling with a raw vegan post thoughts:
Enlightening and such a rare experience to witness Adrian's self determination, and self control to ONLY eat raw vegan. It was humbling to witness the self control one mortal man could posses over eating strictly raw vegan. However, I must admit at times it was stressful. It was stressful to see my friend turn into a skeleton, and become calorie deficient. It eventually got to a point where I was tempted to call his wife to talk some sense into him, but he is a grown man and this was his challenge for the trip. A huge part of me naturally grasped towards not interjecting with his challenge. It was not my place so I channeled this misunderstanding into eating really shitty foods. Lost myself a couple of times, and would drink two liter of coke-cola within a 4 hour period I guess to make up for the calories he did not have. It was weird. I never drank coke-cola in such a huge quantity w/such a sort amount of time. I was disgusted with myself. We would definitely hit our cross roads at times with his practicing of raw veganism.
It made me question a lot about raw veganism, and what it means to me being vegan in general.
Perhaps if he had just carried more raw foods he would not have such a drastic weight change. I don't know though, because a raw diet is so high in fiber I think it would be very hard for him to keep eating enough not to have lost the weight. I think there are some unknowns....and he crossed into the unknowns.
Perhaps that is the whole point of doing adventures is crossing into that unknown. Yup.
Also:
Special thanks to: Rough Riders for sincere support, and generator hub
Family-dad, mom, seesters
Adrian- for brainstorming these ideas
Ella-encouragement, and doing my weave that turned into a madness clump of a dread.
Chuck-sharing life experiences, and encouragement
Aunt Sandy-sharing life experiences, and her vegan food
Trisha, and her family---being my friend, cousin, sharing life experiences of
Military life, and sharing awesome dishes of vegan awesomeness.
Bad luck---turning into something better
Epilepsy---for making me who I am today (a wild ass)
Living in the Wild West desert---best place to make you a (crazy ass)
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1 comments:
You call this a post?? How about a short novel! Sheesh, I think I need to spend one hour reading it over the course of one week. Good job for writing about your journey!
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